Warm Eggplant Salad with Hemp Seed Sauce

Ingredients

• 6 medium-small eggplants (2 3/4 lb.)
• 3 medium vine-ripe tomatoes (14 oz.)
• 1⁄2 medium white onion
• 4 1⁄2 cups (34 oz.) kvass or flat, malty dark beer
• 3⁄4 tsp. soy sauce
• 3 cloves garlic, slightly crushed
• One 1-inch piece peeled ginger, thinly sliced
• 1 small hot chile, such as a Thai variety, seeded
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 1 1⁄2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more as needed
• 1⁄4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1⁄3 cup hemp seeds
• 16 small wedges or thin slices soft, lightly aged goat cheese such as Bûcheron or Chabichou (12 oz.)
• 1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large handfuls fresh spinach (about 2 cups)
• Pickled ramps or fresh sliced scallions, for garnish (optional)

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